an old-fashioned meal needs a good dessert - recipe: chocolate mousse

Every year around the holidays, my husband’s best friend, Alex, treats his three brothers, his closest friends and their significant others to an over-the-top meal. The dinner always takes place at Barberian’s, a steakhouse that’s an institution in Toronto.

David and I have been together for eight years, but this year was the first time that I was also able to attend, as I didn’t have an event to cater that night.

Where do I start?

Both the night and the meal were memorable. We were greeted by the maître d’ who took us down to the lower level of the restaurant… nope, not a scary basement space, but the private wine cellar!

There are two levels — we were in the upper, more intimate dining space, completely surrounded by floor to ceiling wine racks, overlooking their two-storey high main wine vault… incredible.

To make me even happier — among the fifteen guests were a couple married just two weeks earlier, a two-month old baby to hold, and an expectant mother. We started with cocktails and appetizers — think lobster bisque, Caesar salad and shrimp the size of pancakes (no joke).

The menu was extremely traditional, in a good way – I don’t think it’s changed since it opened in 1959! It even has an “after 10 theatre menu for two” with classics like baked Alaska and crepes Suzette.

On to dinner. Amazing wines were shared, and in addition to the meal that each guest ordered (me: a bacon-wrapped filet mignon, as this 8 oz. steak was their smallest; David: a 16 oz. rib-eye steak), Alex ordered a slew of side dishes for us all to share — three whole lobsters, sautéed mushrooms, the best deep-fried onion rings I’ve ever had (David is still talking about them), pickled vegetables, amazing garlic toast and more.

Believe it or not, we all saved room for dessert. I ordered their famous hot apple beignets (donuts) with vanilla ice cream, David ordered the cheesecake and surprise, surprise, Alex ordered a round of desserts for everyone to share on top of their own (it’s like he knew we all had such a hard time deciding).

Their frozen chocolate éclair, caramel cheesecake and signature house chocolate mousse made the rounds. The chocolate mousse was delicious and was actually served in a little house made of chocolate.

As you can imagine, we all felt like royalty that night. I did my best to eat like a pauper the next day! Thanks to our generous friend, Alex, for an incredible meal and experience.

This week’s recipe is for chocolate mousse — unusual because it is made with olive oil, which makes it even creamier. As you can imagine, it’s rich so you don’t need to serve a lot.

chocolate mousse

ingredients

• 200 gram Masters Choice swiss milk chocolate
• 1/3 cup RALO olive oil or masters choice olive oil
• 1 envelope unflavoured gelatin
• 2 tbsp water
• 3 egg yolks
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 3 egg whites
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 3/4 cup whipping (35 per cent) cream
• fresh mint, for garnish

method

• Soften gelatin in water.
• In a large heatproof bowl over simmering water, melt the chocolate.
• Slowly stir in the olive oil until smooth. Then add gelatin.
• Remove from heat. With a mixer at medium speed, beat egg yolks and 1/4 cup sugar until pale yellow and creamy.
• With mixer at low speed, slowly mix the chocolate-oil mixture into the yolks.
• Beat egg whites until they form soft peaks.
• Gradually beat in 1/4 cup of sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form. In a separate bowl, beat whipping cream until stiff peaks form.
• Gently fold 1/3 egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Add remaining whites until almost combined. Gently fold in whipped cream and combine. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for three hours.
• When set, scoop out into small bowls and garnish with additional whipped cream and/or a sprig of mint, if desired.
  

smoked salmon perfect for sandwich, pizza - or class - recipe: smoked salmon tartare on crisp potato rounds

Last week I had the pleasure of teaching an appetizer cooking class at Household China. The class was named “Shortt Bites” and I had quite a BLAST teaching it!

Several years ago, while a student at George Brown Chef School in Toronto, I assisted chefs who gave cooking classes at Upstairs at Loblaws and Dish Cooking Studio. It was a fabulous way to network, pick up a lot of handy tips and tricks, and of course, eat! It was a perfect job for a starving student like me. Well, allow me to rephrase that – perfect for a broke student who was determined to still eat well!

As an assistant in Toronto, I had to shop for the grocery items, prep the food, assist the chef during the class and don’t forget take care of all of those dishes! So what a pleasant surprise last Thursday evening when I arrived at Household China to find the grocery items purchased, the food prepped (perfect mise en place, Thanks Donna-Marie!), two accomplished assistants and one friendly dishwasher ready to help me all evening!

The class went off without a hitch – we worked our way through five recipes: warm cheese olive bites (recipe can be found on my website: www.danashortt.ca/recipes ); coconut shrimp with ginger tamarind dipping sauce (recipe also on my website); date rumaki (medjool dates stuffed with chèvre and almonds and wrapped in hickory bacon); savoury French toast with baked brie and red pepper jelly; and smoked salmon tartare on crisp potato rounds.

This smoked salmon recipe is easy and elegant and can be used in other applications (try some spread on a flatbread or pizza shell topped with goat cheese, in a wrap, folded into an omelet, or used as a gourmet sandwich filling)

smoked salmon tartare on crisp potato rounds

note: recipe can be halved

yield: about seven dozen hors d’oeuvres

ingredients

• eighteen ounces smoked salmon, diced
• one-quarter cup capers, rinsed and chopped
• one shallot, peeled and minced
• two to three tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish
• one teaspoon cracked black pepper
• zest of a lemon
• the juice of half a fresh lemon (may need more)
• good-quality olive-oil (one or two drizzles)
• herb potato crisps (two to three bags)
• full fat sour cream, crème fraîche or Devon cream, for garnish
  

method

• Combine all of the ingredients and toss gently.
• Check the seasoning, add more pepper or lemon juice, if necessary.
• Place a small dollop (about 1 teaspoon) of smoked salmon mixture on top of each potato round.
• Top salmon mixture with a small dollop of sour cream, crème fraîche or Devon cream and a sprig of fresh dill.

celebrating an anniversary with lamb meatballs - recipe: moroccan lamb meatballs (or burgers)

Hard to believe, but I’m celebrating my baby’s fifth birthday this week.

No, not Johnny’s b-day (my son, who’s not yet two) but my shop’s birthday.

The shop was born (OK, opened) in 2004.

I jokingly refer to it as my first baby, because starting a new business is very demanding, requiring constant time and attention (much like an actual baby).

And accordingly, nurturing a new business provides an amazing sense of accomplishment.

It’s incredible to see what’s possible with hard work, care, attention. . . and help from a supportive family, friends and great employees.

This week’s recipe is an item from our original full-service catering menu.

Five years later, it’s one of the few items that still remain on our current menu — a testament to just how popular an appetizer it is.

These Moroccan lamb meatballs are great to pass around at a party — and I know from my years in catering that meatballs and shrimp are always the first appetizers “to go”, no matter how undemanding or sophisticated the crowd.

Note: an easy summer substitute is Moroccan lamb burgers.

Please join us on Nov. 6 and Nov. 7 for our customer appreciation anniversary sale, happening at my shop on 55 Erb St. E. in Waterloo.

Thank you so much to the DSG team and to our loyal customers who have become friends.

moroccan lamb meatballs (or burgers)

makes about 40-50 small meatballs (or 12 burgers)

ingredients

• 5 pounds lean ground lamb
• 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 pound cooking onions, finely diced
• 2 tablespoons garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 2 teaspoons allspice
• 1 tablespoon cumin
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 2 tablespoons fresh mint, finely chopped
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1 cup dried currants
• 1 cup breadcrumbs

method (meatballs and burgers)

• Heat oil in skillet over medium heat and sauté onions until soft and light golden in colour, about 7–9 minutes.
• Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about two minutes.
• Add salt, allspice, cumin, and cinnamon and cook for another two minutes, stirring well. Cool.
• Place lamb in large bowl. Add cooled onion mixture, currants, mint, eggs and breadcrumbs.

method for meatballs

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
• Form lamb mixture into small meatballs.
• Place meatballs on a parchment lined baking sheet.
• Bake in oven until cooked throughout, about 18-25 minutes (time will vary, depending on the size of the meatballs and your oven) Serve with a spiced yogurt sauce, if desired.

method for burgers

• Shape lamb mixture into roughly seven-ounce patties.
• Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Grill for about seven to nine minutes on each side or until a thermometer reaches an internal temperature of 160 degrees.

sweet treat from a blushing bride - recipe: caramel corn

Although it’s been over three hours since I left the wedding of our good friends Shawn & Jessica, I’m still a little choked-up. It was an amazing, teary-eyed (in a good way!) celebration of their love and commitment to each other.

I adore attending weddings – even if I don’t know the bride and/or groom. My favourite part of a wedding celebration by far (even more than the food) is the speeches. I’m so glad that David remembered to stuff his pockets with Kleenex for me this afternoon! So many beautiful, heartfelt sentiments, such loving family and friends - it was a privilege to attend.

Shawn and Jessica had a relatively short engagement – as Jessica’s sister Suzanne said today; “When you meet someone that you want to spend the rest of your life with, you want the rest of your life to start right away.” They’re so perfect for one another, why wait?

At Jessica’s bridal shower a few weeks ago, she gave each of her friends a personalized card, outlining all of the qualities that she admires most in us and how those personality traits inspire her to have the best life possible with Shawn. In addition to the card, she also gave each of us a bag of her famous caramel corn, which she learned to make from her grandmother. Yes, Jess truly is this thoughtful.

Congratulations to my dear friends Shawn and Jessica – may your life together be as sweet as Grandma’s caramel corn!

jessica's caramel corn

ingredients

• seven quarts popped popcorn
• two cups brown sugar
• one cup butter
• one-half cup corn syrup
• 1 teaspoon salt
• one-half teaspoon baking soda
• one-half teaspoon pure vanilla extract

method

• Preheat oven to 250º F.
• Boil sugar, butter and corn syrup in a saucepan over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes.
• Remove saucepan from heat and add the salt, baking soda and the vanilla. (The mixture will foam when the baking soda is added).
• Pour the caramel over the popped corn and stir carefully.
• Put popcorn onto a large pan into the oven and bake for 20-40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes or so (note: if you want really chewy popcorn, don’t put it in the oven at all).
• Crumble as it cools

roasted veggies a quick little way to help a busy family - recipe: simple roasted broccoli

OK, a confession — my kitchen is probably feeling a little bit lonely lately. I haven’t been cooking as much as I usually do.

I’m juggling catering events, catching up with clients, training new staff to gear up for our Christmas season and trying to maintain a semblance of a social life (what’s that again?). That’s in addition to never-ending household chores and spending quality time with my husband and son.

What else is new? Well, David is back to working full-time — he’s finished his parental leave, and my little guy is learning the ropes (OK, the building blocks) at daycare, so it’s definitely been an adjustment for all three of us.

Along with takeout pizza, we’ve been enjoying our fair share of Dana Shortt Gourmet entrées from my shop. What I’m preparing at home, however, are easy and healthy veggie side dishes to serve alongside all of these ready-for-us mains.

As of September, I began my obsession with roasting vegetables. I actually crave them during the day. Almost every evening, I roast something. It could be cauliflower, carrots, squash, tomatoes, onions, roma beans, fennel or my favourite, broccoli.

The technique is so simple — cut the washed veggies to your desired size, dry, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast in a hot oven until the vegetables are crisp tender and the edges are caramelized. I love the taste of the “frizzled” broccoli florets and the darkened stalks. Little Johnny will even eat broccoli prepared this way for breakfast!

A quick reminder, Dana Shortt Gourment’s second annual charity bake sale is Oct. 7 from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m.

All profits will go to Family and Children’s Services of the Waterloo Region. If you have a moment, please drop by the shop to support this worthy organization.

simple roasted broccoli

ingredients

• 1 large bunch broccoli (cut the florets into two-inch pieces and the stalk into one-inch pieces)
• olive oil (note: I use the garlic oil featured in my July 1, 2009 column)
• salt and pepper
  

method

• Preheat oven to 425º F.
• Wash the broccoli.
• Cut the florets and stalk into small pieces (note: if you decide on larger pieces of broccoli, you will need to roast it longer).
• Dry the broccoli pieces with paper towel.
• Place broccoli on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with olive oil (note: each piece of broccoli should be covered in a thin coating of oil).
• Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
• Bake in oven until the broccoli florets are frizzled and stalks are lightly golden in colour; about 17-23 minutes (the time will depend on your oven and the size of your broccoli pieces).

pumpkin muffins capture the flavour of the season - recipe: pumpkin raisin muffins

There are so many things that I love about our new home and neighbourhood. 1. We’re on the same block as my brother and sister-in-law!!! 2. Our new home has an upper floor “media room” which we’re using as a big playroom for John. 3. We are steps away from a school. 4. I now have a gas stove!!! 5. There are lots of kids in our new neighbourhood. Did I mention that I now have a gas stove?

It’s so nice to be surrounded by young families and children. I’ve met many friendly Moms (and Dad’s) while out walking with John. I was recently invited to our first “play date” in the area. Of course, I wanted to bring something with me but I wasn’t quite sure what would be appropriate. I decided on pumpkin raisin muffins – I picked up a sugar pumpkin a few days before at the market and was ready to bake on Saturday morning just before the play date. Long story shortt, John slept-in past 7:30 a.m. (a miracle!) and there was NO way I was waking him up with a racket in the kitchen. Thank goodness for canned pumpkin! Turns out the hostess of the play-date also baked muffins – Kelly’s blueberry coffee cake muffins were fantastic! It was great to start out the friendship with a common bond – food!

This pumpkin muffin recipe is courtesy of guess who, my Mom. However, I took her original higher-fat recipe and reduced the oil from one-and-a-half cups down to half a cup with the addition of a few more eggs. I also reduced the amount of sugar so they aren’t as sweet.

pumpkin raisin muffins

yields: about 20 small muffins

ingredients

• three cups all purpose flour
• two teaspoons baking powder
• two teaspoons baking soda
• two teaspoons cinnamon
• one-and-one-third cups sugar
• one cup raisins
• one-half cup vegetable oil
• five eggs
• two-and-one-half cups pumpkin
  

method

• Preheat oven to 350º F
• Mix together flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and sugar in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add in raisins and stir.
• In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, pumpkin and oil until combined.
• Using a wooden spoon, mix wet ingredients into dry ingredients. Do not over-mix as that will result in dry muffins.
• Spoon mix into paper muffin liners that have been coated with non stick spray.
• Bake in 350º F oven for about 30 minutes.

  Note: a handful or two of sweetened shredded coconut and a half-cup of chopped dates make for a tasty twist.

'Shortt’ but sweet family visit nets a new dessert - recipe: Zia Maria's Amaretti

We just returned from a ‘short but sweet’ visit to Thunder Bay. My hubby David’s family lives there – his relatives were delighted to meet our little John. We had a great trip – plenty of visiting and LOTS of great eats!

My father-in-law, Rocco, is a fantastic cook. The night we arrived, he treated us to one of David’s favourite dishes – Italian sausage with chili-garlic romano bean & potato mash. All I can say is that it is now one of my favourites, too! The night before we left, Rocco made his famous fettucini with tomato sauce and meatballs. It was amazing! I think it’s rather fortunate that both David’s and my family share such a great love of food.

We also had a visit with his Zia (Aunt) Maria. It was such a wonderful afternoon! John delighted in playing in her beautiful back yard (she has the vegetable garden OF MY DREAMS). As John played, we nibbled on delicious antipasti that she lovingly prepared – think roasted red peppers with basil, handmade cured sausage, fresh bread with preserved olive spread and melon. Dessert? Espresso with her famous just-sweet-enough cookies – cranberry almond biscotti and my favourite, Amaretti.

Thanks goes to Gabriella Sacchetti, Maria’s daughter, for the recipe.

Amaretti (Italian Almond Chews)

makes about 30 cookies

ingredients for cookie

• one-quarter cup egg whites (about 2 egg whites)
• one cup sugar
• one-and-one-half tablespoons pure almond extract
• two-and-one-half to three cups whole, unpeeled almonds
• one-quarter cup flour
  

ingredients for topping

• About 30 whole, unpeeled almonds (note: reserve for topping, do not grind)
• one egg white, beaten in bowl
  

method

• Preheat oven to 375 F.
• Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper and spray with cooking spray (do not skip this step, otherwise the cookies will stick to the paper)
• Finely grind the whole, unpeeled almonds in a food processor. Measure about two-and-a-half cups into a mixing bowl. Reserve an additional half-cup of ground almonds, in case needed (see below). Add flour to mixing bowl with two-and-a-half cups ground almonds.
• In a large glass measuring cup, beat the egg whites, sugar and extract well using a whisk.
• Combine egg white mixture to flour-ground almond mixture. The mixture should be completely mixed but dry (think of wet sand at the beach that can be shaped and will hold its shape). This is the stage where you may need to add more of the reserved half-cup of ground almonds if needed, until the texture reaches the desired consistency.
• Scoop out one tbsp size portions onto a plate, dip your fingers in the egg white mixture to lubricate your palms and form the portions into rounded balls and place on the parchment paper. Press a whole almond into the top of each cookie, pointy end first. Each ball will be slightly pressed, but will continue to spread slightly when baked.
• Bake in the middle rack for 15-17 minutes – you want a slight colour on the edges, but the centre should remain chewy.
• Buon appetito!
  

perfect fall-off-the-bone ribs are a favourite birthday treat - recipe: fall-off-the-bone ribs

I celebrated my birthday last week. In my family, it’s tradition for my mother to prepare our choice of dinner for our b-day get-togethers. It’s always a tough decision – Mom is a great cook and I have so many favourites! This year, I decided on her fall-off-the-bone pork back ribs.

These ribs are effortless and delicious. Many people boil their ribs to ensure tenderness, but the method of cooking them “slow and low” in an oven really does work. It’s easy – all you have to do is cover the ribs with thin slices of lemon, set them on a roasting rack in a roasting pan (with the lid on) and cook them slow (over a long period of time) and low (in a low temperature oven). About twenty minutes before serving, brush the ribs with bbq sauce, turn up the heat and bake them uncovered for a few more minutes.

Our family friend, Helen Howatson, gets the credit for this recipe/method. These delicious, ridiculously easy to prepare ribs have been a hit with everyone I’ve ever served them to. In fact, this was one of the first meals that I made from my husband, David, when we were both living in Toronto. His apartment kitchen was absurdly tiny – I’m not exaggerating when I say that there was about sixteen inches of counter space – not a lot prep room! So, these ribs were the perfect choice, all I had to do was bring over my own roasting pan.

David was impressed – he had no idea how easy they were to make and was amazed that I could create something so delicious in his minuscule kitchen! I served them with regular baked potatoes, but Mom prefers to serve baked sweet potatoes with crumbled goat cheese. I highly recommend this combo – the tangy, creamy goat cheese pairs wonderfully with the sugary sweet potato.

Back Ribs (serves about 4)

ingredients

• two racks pork BACK (not side) ribs
• two lemons, thinly sliced
• your favourite bbq sauce

method

• Preheat oven to 300 F.
• Place ribs on roasting rack in large roasting pan. Pour about one cup of water into the bottom of the roasting pan (water should not touch ribs). Cover entire surface of ribs with thin slices of lemon. Cover roasting pan with tight fitting lid (or use tinfoil if you don’t have a lid or if the lid isn’t tight fitting).
• Cook ribs in oven for 4 – 6 hours or until very tender. Remove ribs from oven and remove lemon slices. Turn oven up to 375 F. Brush ribs with your desired amount of bbq sauce.
• Put ribs back into the (375 F) oven, uncovered for about 15-25 minutes or until hot. Alternatively, brush with bbq sauce and grill on the bbq.