a tapenade tribute to zia - recipe: zia maria's olive tapenade

David and I recently received an invitation to his incredibly sweet, Zia (Aunt) Maria’s 75th birthday party. Unfortunately, the party was over a thousand kilometres away in Thunder Bay.

However, along with the invitation, Maria’s daughter, Gabriella, sent some great photos and a request that those who could not attend the celebration share a memory or two of Zia.

It will come as no surprise to the regular readers of my column that most of my memories involve food! Maria is an amazing cook — I’ve written about her before — and we definitely bonded over our love of the kitchen.

Maria has an “old-school” cold room. Growing up, our family’s cold cellar was mainly used for pop, beer, canned goods and perhaps a few jars of pickles or chili sauce that someone had made for us.

I think that my jaw literally dropped when I walked into Zia’s cold room for the first time. It was full of large jugs of homemade wine, vinegars, jams, preserved vegetables, fruit, tomato sauce, hanging prosciutto and the like. I was in heaven — in fact, no trip to Thunder Bay is complete without a walk through what I like to call the “food shrine”.

I have many special memories of Zia and our time together but there are two that stand out in my mind — the first is the day last summer, when she met John for the first time. We spent the day in her backyard.

She has the vegetable garden of my dreams! We watched John run around and stuff himself with her freshly harvested raspberries and peas.

The second memory goes back a few years, to when Zia and I spent the day in her kitchen together. We used her second kitchen, located in the basement of her house. Zia and I spent the day preserving jars of food.

We made a few different items, but the one that brought the biggest smile to my husband David’s face was Zia Maria’s famous olive tapenade. We can never leave Thunder Bay without at least one jar of it, and I was thrilled to have the recipe in my hands after our day together.

This tapenade is great on crackers, flatbread or a sandwich. One of David’s favourite snacks is a fried egg on a toasted sesame seed bagel (ideally from City Cafe) topped with this tapenade and a splash of hot sauce.

zia maria's olive tapenade

ingredients

• one 375-ml jar of pitted black olives
• one 375-ml jar of pitted green olives
• one 14-oz can of artichoke hearts in water, well drained
• one 375-ml jar of roasted red peppers, well drained
• 1/2 tin of anchovies in oil
  (use a couple tablespoons of anchovy paste if you're a bit leery)
• two or three cloves of garlic
• peeled fresh parsley, to taste (I use about half a cup)
• fresh basil, to taste (I use about half a cup)

method

• Add all ingredients into the bowl of a cusinart and mix/pulse to desired texture (pulse longer for a smooth texture, shorter for a chunky texture).
• This will keep for a few weeks in the fridge.
• Serve a la David on bagels, or spread onto baguette slices, top with some goat cheese or mozzarella and bake in a 350F oven until hot and cheese is melted. Also good on pasta — just add some olive oil to thin it out a bit.

birthday cake memories - recipe: knotty pine’s buttered almond cake

I recently celebrated a birthday. It’s tradition in my family for the birthday guy or gal to give strict instructions on what he/she would like Mom to prepare for the “feast”. This year was a bit different. My brother Adam hosted the dinner and my Mom helped by baking a cake.

Adam treated us to baby back ribs, his famous spicy potato wedges, Caesar salad and Herrle’s corn-on-the-cob. Mom surprised us with a version of the Knotty Pine’s buttered almond cake. Does anyone else remember that amazing creation?

Enjoying that cake four times a year, on each of our birthdays, was another tradition that held fast until the bakery closed down a number of years ago.

Mom recently found the recipe online. Apparently, we aren’t the only ones missing this cake! If you don’t want to go to the effort of making the from-scratch cake recipe, cheat and use a yellow cake box mix — I won’t tell.

Whether you make the cake yourself or not, the best part of the cake is the icing. In fact, I recently dressed up a banana loaf with this icing for a pot luck — yum.

Knotty Pine’s buttered almond cake
(recipe found online)

ingredients: cake

• 1/2 cup butter
• 2/3 cup shortening 1 3/4 cups granulated sugar
• 7 eggs
• 3 1/3 cups cake and pastry flour
• 4 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 cups milk

ingredients: cream filling

• 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons milk
• 1/3 cup cornstarch
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 pinch salt
• 3 egg yolks
• 1/4 teaspoon almond flavouring

ingredients: buttered almond icing

• 1/2 cup butter
• 1 tablespoon margarine
• 4 cups icing sugar
• 6 tablespoons table cream
• 1 cup chopped almonds, toasted

method: cake

• Cream butter and shortening together.
• Add sugar and beat until mixture is smooth and light.
• Add eggs one at a time and beat until well blended.
• Sift flour, baking powder and salt together.
• Add dry ingredients and milk alternately to creamed mixture. Mix gently until well combined.
• Pour batter into two 10 inch or three 9 inch round cake pans that have been lightly buttered and lined with wax paper.
• Bake at 350F for 25 to 30 minutes.
• Let cool on racks for about 10 minutes then remove from pans and cool completely.

method: cream filling

• Heat 1 1/2 cups milk in the top of a double boiler, being careful not to scald.
• Make a paste of remaining milk, cornstarch, sugar and salt.
• Add egg yolks and stir until well mixed.
• Add a little hot milk to egg yolk mixture to warm it, then stir into milk in double boiler.
• Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until filling is thickened and smooth and there is no raw starch taste — about five minutes. Stir in flavoring if desired.
• To prevent a skin from forming on top, cover with plastic wrap and stir occasionally during cooling.

method: buttered almond icing

• Heat butter and margarine in a small skillet or heavy saucepan until foam on top turns a golden brown.
• Stir occasionally. Do not over-brown or the flavour will be burnt rather than roasted.
• Cool slightly.
• Place icing sugar in mixing bowl and mix in cream, then gradually stir in browned butter, scraping pan well.
• Beat until icing is smooth and creamy.
• Assembling cake
• Slice each 10-inch layer in half horizontally. Do not split nine-inch layers.
• Top one cake layer with filling and repeat, topping with final cake layer.
• Cover top and sides of cake with a thin layer of icing.
• Immediately add almonds to top and/or sides of cake and refrigerate.

coconut sauce from the eastern seaboard - recipe: coconut lime sauce

published: september 1, 2010

David and I were fortunate enough to take two, one-week vacations this summer. The first was a fabulous trip in July to Geneva-on-the-Lake, Ohio (yes, Ohio) which I featured in my Aug. 18 article.

We’ve just returned from our second trip, which was to Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. Yes, Delaware. I’m amazed at the number of people (read: everyone) who were shocked by our choice of vacation destinations.

All I can say is that Rehoboth was highly recommended by a good client and it’s been featured in my favourite magazine, Coastal Living, several times.

Because of its location on the eastern seaboard, Rehoboth Beach is a popular summer destination for New Yorkers, Baltimoreans and Philadelphians.

The two snags to Rehoboth being so popular are the crowds and the traffic. But, like most everything, there is much good to accompany the bad. In addition to the beautiful beaches, Rehoboth has great shopping (with no sales tax!) tons of fun activities and of course, great food. Also, there is certainly no shortage of amazing restaurants to choose from.

We narrowed down our faves to two fantastic restaurants: Adriatico, a family-run Italian restaurant just off the strip, and Big Fish, an incredible seafood restaurant located on the main highway as you enter the city of Rehoboth itself.

We ate at Big Fish three times in one week! It’s so popular (for good reasons) that the line-ups start at 5 p. m. and even earlier on rainy, non-beach days.

Highlights included pecan crusted tilapia with a coconut-rum sauce, grouper with mushroom sauce, ridiculously tender calamari with a duo of dipping sauces, citrus swordfish, caramelized salmon and a plethora of delicious sides, including sautéed summer squash, redskin mashed potatoes, creamed spinach and our fave, “Neva’s famous potatoes”, which are grated scalloped potatoes loaded with cheese.

Here’s my take on their fabulous coconut sauce, which is delicious drizzled onto baked or grilled fish and rice. You can also use this as a stir-fry sauce.

coconut lime sauce

ingredients

• 1 tablespoon canola oil 2 garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated or
• very finely chopped 1 14-oz can of coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 2 teaspoons tamari or light soya
• sauce 1 lime (zest and juice)

method

• Heat canola oil in medium sized saucepan over medium heat. Add minced garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, about one to two minutes. Be careful not to burn. Add the coconut milk and sugar to saucepan, stir.
• Turn the heat to high and boil the sauce until it thickens and is reduced to about one-and-a-half cups. This should take about six or seven minutes.
• Remove from heat and add the tamari and the zest and juice of one lime. Stir to combine.
• Note: For a spicy version, add a half to one teaspoon of thai red curry paste while cooking the garlic and ginger mixture.

off the beaten path - recipe: shrimp burgers

David, John and I just got back from a family vacation to Geneva-on-the-Lake, Ohio. Explaining that we were vacationing in Ohio elicited a few raised eyebrows from friends and family, to say the least.

What can I say — David lets me plan our vacations and I like checking out places that are a bit off the beaten path. I wanted to go somewhere new, I wanted it to be on the water, and I didn’t want too long of a drive — those of you with children under five will understand why.

Geneva-on-the-Lake is dubbed “Ohio’s first summer resort”, an old fashioned lakefront getaway that has something for everyone. We loved it.

The condo that we rented was perfect — comfortable and tastefully decorated, with amazing views and amenities, including a hot tub, outdoor play area, beautiful flower gardens and a heated pool with an incredible view of the expansive lake.

On top of all of this, we were within walking distance to a state park, paved trails, two miniature golf courses, arcades, a waterslide park, wineries and of course, restaurants.

The condo owners were kind enough to leave us a handful of menus from their favourite local restaurants.

Not to be missed was Alessandro’s, an authentic Italian trattoria; Lakeside Winery, known for their local perch dinner; Madsen Donuts, nothing fancy, but by far, the best donuts I have ever eaten; and Eddie’s Grill, an authentic old fashioned hamburger joint that hasn’t changed much since opening in the 1950’s.

Eddie’s was a hoot — it offered a nostalgic atmosphere with an open kitchen and served yummy food to boot. David and I came up with three main reasons why their burgers tasted so good:

• the ultra soft sesame seed buns
• the finely diced onions
• and their house made sweet pepper tapenade (ok, relish).

We ate there three times in one week. No kidding. As you can tell, we loved it!

Vacations are certainly the time to indulge, but can be a strain on the waistline. Now that we’re back to reality, these delicious shrimp burgers fill the craving with far less fat and calories.

shrimp burgers - (makes 6 burgers)

ingredients

• 2 litres water
• 2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning
• 1 pound shrimp, peeled and de-veined
• 1/2 cup cooked corn niblets
• 3 tablespoons celery, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons chopped scallions
• 2 tablespoons chopped
• fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 teaspoons lemon zest
• 3-4 tablespoons mayo
• 1 cup breadcrumbs, prefer ably fresh (from about 2 slices bread)
• 1 egg, beaten
• salt and pepper, to taste
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs canola oil, for pan frying

method

• In a large saucepan, bring the water and Old Bay seasoning just to a boil over high heat. Turn off the heat, add the shrimp, and let stand until the shrimp are pink, about 2 or 3 minutes. Drain, then chop coarsely.
• In a large bowl, mix the shrimp, corn, celery, scallions, parsley, and lemon zest. Stir in the mayonnaise and breadcrumbs, and season with salt and pepper. Gently fold the egg into the mixture.
• Shape the mixture into six patties. Coat the burgers in bread crumbs. Place them in the fridge to cool before frying.
• Heat canola oil (about two tablespoons) in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Remove the burgers from the refrigerator and gently lay them in the pan. Cook until both sides are browned, about three minutes per side. Drain on a plate lined with a paper towel.
• Serve on buns with your favourite condiments, such as lettuce, tomato, avocado, caramelized onions or tartar sauce.
  

easy hazelnut cake can be made gluten-free - recipe: hazelnut cake (aka the easiest cake ever)

My Mom, son John and I were recently invited to spend a day at the lake with our lifelong family friends Mae & Clair Rogers as well as their daughter and son-in-law, Karen and Joseph Stemmler.

My grandmother and Mae were good friends, as were their mothers. Mae is like a ‘special aunt’ to my mom, and she is certainly special to my brother Adam and me, as she was our much beloved part-time caregiver for a number of years.

The Rogers’ and Stemmler’s are the most calm and kind people I know. When we pulled into the driveway of their Habermehl Lake cottage, they were waiting for us, waving and smiling. You’d be rather hard-pressed to find them harried or stressed.

They treated us to a delicious lunch consisting of creamy Italian chicken, steamed rice, a delicious tossed salad with balsamic vinaigrette, Mae’s jellied pineapple, carrot & nut salad, and marinated vegetables.

As we were 'oohing' and 'aahing' over the food, Karen explained that she wanted to serve an easy, make-ahead meal so that she could spend her time catching up, not cooking. The chicken was made in a slow cooker while the rice did its thing in a rice cooker. Everything else was prepared in advance.

It is my opinion that your guests can sense your mood upon arrival, and if you’re stressed, rushing around and/or exhausted, they’ll be bound to feel at least a little bit guilty. This is just one of the many reasons why I’m a firm believer of preparing make-ahead menus when you’re entertaining at home. The whole point is to relax, have fun and enjoy the company of your guests. As the “Barefoot Contessa” Ina Garten frequently states; “your guests aren’t going to have more fun if you spend a week making the food!”

After a relaxing boat ride (but also very exciting, as this was Johnny’s first time in a motor boat!) we sat at a cozy outdoor table to enjoy dessert. The dessert was a delicious hazelnut cake with ice cream and fresh berries. I sheepishly asked for the recipe (not everyone likes to share!) and Karen promptly made a photocopy for me.

This cake is called “the easiest cake ever” because it contains only 5 ingredients and it’s prepared in a blender! It can also be prepared gluten-free. (it calls for only 2 tablespoons of ANY flour – and when I tested the recipe, I used rice flour with great results).

It was a memorable day – full of reminiscing and laughter all at a relaxed pace; in part made possible by simply prepping the meal the day before.

hazelnut cake (a.k.a. the easiest cake ever)

ingredients

• 1 (one) cup hazelnuts (skins left on)
• 2 (two) tablespoons flour (any kind – use rice flour for gluten-free)
• 2½ (two-and-one-half) teaspoons baking powder
• ¾ (three-quarters) cup sugar or honey
• 4 (four) eggs

method

• Preheat oven to 350º F.
• Place nuts in a blender and blend on high speed until they are finely ground.
• Add all other ingredients to the blender and blend until everything is incorporated.
• Pour batter into a parchment lined 9” by 9” square cake pan.
• Bake at 350º F for 20 – 30 minutes. Test with toothpick.
• Serve with ice cream or Devon cream or whipped cream and berries

in case of emergency - recipe: "emergency” granola bars

I recently read a blogger’s list of summertime favourites — it included the likes of bare shoulders, sleeping without covers, and tomato & mayo sandwiches.

Of the many items on that list, a good road trip was nowhere to be found. A road trip is definitely on my summertime list. Who doesn’t love a quick afternoon car adventure or a lengthy drive to a much-anticipated vacation spot?

Last weekend, David, John and I were invited to a friend’s cottage in the Huntsville area. It’s safe to say that David and I were both a little nervous about how John would take to being car-bound for three-plus hours on highways 401, 400 and 11.

We played it safe and packed a few new toys and lots of yummy treats in case of an emergency — the emergency being rather loud verbal protesting by John, in case you’re wondering.

I’m both pleased and proud to announce that little John did very well in the car, although that didn’t stop us from devouring the yummy “emergency” treats like these granola bars anyway. As it turned out, David was more in need of pacifying than John...

Because granola bars are inexpensive and easy to make, as well as easy to eat on the run, they make for perfect road food. This recipe was adapted from the Whitewater Cooks granola bar recipe. I added cocoa powder, various seeds and dried fruit for richness and texture.

'emergency' granola bars

ingredients

• 1/2 cup butter, room temperature
• 3/4 cup natural peanut butter
• 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons cocoa powder
• 1/2 cup coconut, toasted
• 1/3 cup sesame seeds, toasted
• 1/2 cup sunflower seeds, toasted
• 1/3 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted
• 1/3 cup maple syrup
• 1/3 cup corn syrup
• 3/4 cup dried fruit — cranberries, blueberries, for example
• 1/2 cup miniature chocolate chips
• 3 and 1/2 cups oats

method

• Preheat oven to 350 F. Line 13” by 18” rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
• In a large frying pan, toast the coconut, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds over medium heat until coconut is light golden and seeds are glistening. Set aside to cool.
• In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar. Next, add the peanut butter, vanilla and cocoa powder until whipped and well combined. Next, add in the maple syrup and corn syrup until combined.
• On medium low speed, add in the coconut seed mixture to the peanut butter mixture. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula to ensure that everything is well-mixed.
• On low speed, add in the oats, dried fruit and chocolate chips.
• Pour the granola mixture onto the parchment-lined baking sheet and pack down the granola until it is spread evenly across the pan.
• For crunchy granola bars, bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until golden brown; rotating the pan every 10 minutes or so. Let cool slightly and cut into 30 squares while still warm.
• For chewy granola bars, bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until light golden, rotating the pan once after 10 minutes. Let cool slightly and cut into 30 squares while still warm.

variety of veggies means saying goodbye to ho-hum salads - recipe: caprese salad skewers

Arugula, mache or dandelion greens? Hallumi, chevre or gorgonzola? Meyer lemon dressing, Asian sesame drizzle or Ponzu vinaigrette? Don’t forget the accompaniments such as crispy wonton strips, candied nuts and apple chips. Due to the plethora of grocery store items from which to choose, gone are the days of ho-hum salads.

While salad ingredients and their combinations are more creative than ever, the presentation of salads hasn’t changed all that much. As a food shop and catering business owner, one of my favourite tasks is coming up with creative ways to present standard fare such as salads.

Here are five ideas for one-or two-bite salads that are consistently received with what I like to call the “wow factor”.

fresh salad rolls

Rice paper wraps (pre-soaked in water) filled with Asian ingredients like shrimp, fresh herbs, shredded vegetables, mango and hoisin sauce. For a twist, try something different like Japanese caesar salad rolls (romaine, edamame, crispy bacon, wasabi caesar dressing) or pad thai summer rollas.

mini parmesan cup salads

Make tiny parmesan cups using mini-muffin tins. Stuff cups with chopped mixed greens and roasted grape tomatoes; drizzle with reduced balsamic to finish.

mini cucumber

cup salads Cut a cucumber into one inch slices and use a melon-baller to scoop out the centre of each slice, leaving a shell of flesh. For a one-bite Greek salad, fill cups with chopped tomatoes, olives, fresh oregano, red onion and feta cheese. For something less conventional, how about sesame Asian chicken or shrimp salad?

mini filled cherry tomato salads

Using a bread knife, cut a thin slice off the bottoms of cherry tomatoes so that they will sit flat. Then cut a thin slice from tops of the cherry tomatoes. Using a melon-baller, carefully scoop out the centres, leaving ‘shells’ of tomato flesh.

For mini BLT’s, stuff the tomatoes with bacon, lettuce and lemon-pepper mayo. For a Mexican twist, fill them with guacamole and top with a few black beans and a sprig of cilantro.

salads-on-sticks

I’ve found that almost any salad can be re-invented using a skewer. Skewers make for a fun presentation and are perfect for buffets or casual “fork only” dinners where guests sit on a chair or sofa instead of at the dining room table. In a nutshell, you skewer the various salad items.

I always use a mini four inch skewer. Guests dip the skewers into dressing.

For a Cobb salad, thread a skewer with a piece of bibb lettuce, a piece of avocado, a grape tomato, a piece of bacon (or a cube of ham) and a piece of hard-boiled egg (or a halved quail’s egg). Serve with a blue cheese dipping sauce.

For a pasta primavera salad, thread a four inch skewer with a small (cooked) cheese tortellini, cubes of roasted grilled vegetables (i. e. pepper, eggplant, zucchini) and finish with a second cheese tortellini. Dip in marinara sauce or red pepper pesto.

Caesar, Greek and Caprese salad skewers work well too.

caprese salad skewers

makes about two dozen

ingredients for skewers

• 48 grape tomatoes
• 48 mini bocconcini mozzarella balls
• 1 cup homemade or store bought pesto

ingredients for reduced balsamic dressing

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1/4 cup light soya sauce

method for skewers

• Marinate bocconcini in pesto for an hour or up to two days in fridge.
• Thread a four inch skewer with a grape tomato, a bocconcini ball and repeat.
• Dip skewers into reduced balsamic dressing, or drizzle skewers with balsamic dressing before serving.

method for dressing

Place all ingredients in a pot and boil on high heat until thickened, about six to nine minutes.

nostalgic noshing on some grownup s'mores - recipe: grownup s'mores

I was recently asked to be a guest on a future episode of Global TV’s cooking show, Foodies.

I’ll never forget my first television appearance — it was on the program Daytime with host Susan Cook Scheerer and former host Mark Paine. Was I ever nervous! Fortunately, Susan and Mark both did a fine job of making me feel at ease.

Since that first show in 2004, I’ve had the pleasure of being a guest on a few different television shows. I love the rush and thrill of live TV — strangely enough, it’s actually addictive.

After much thought (perhaps too much), I sent the Foodies producers and host some ideas for an episode based on “nostalgic nosh with a twist” (think: grown up s’mores, beef sliders with blue cheese and fried onions, macaroni and goat cheese croquettes, one-bite savory French toast with baked brie and pepper jelly). Hopefully they’ll like the concept for the show and you’ll see me on an episode in the not-too-distant future.

Here’s the recipe for my grown-up s’mores – guaranteed to have your guests swooning at the cottage or around the campfire!

grownup s'mores

ingredients for marshmallows

• 1/2 cup white corn syrup
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• icing sugar

additional ingredients

• 8 graham crackers, each cut into quarters
• 2 cups dark chocolate, chopped
• 1/2 cup coffee liqueur (such as Tia Maria)
• 1/2 cup white chocolate, chopped
• 1/4 cup graham cracker crumbs

method for marshmallows

• Place gelatin and water in a medium saucepan (off the heat) and let sit for about eight minutes until the gelatin softens. Add sugar and heat the mixture over medium-low heat to gently dissolve all of the ingredients.
• In a large bowl, combine the corn syrup and the vanilla. Pour in the warm gelatin-sugar mixture. Beat with an electric hand mixer on high speed for 12-15 minutes or until the mixture is white, thick and glossy with stiff peaks.
• Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and dust with icing sugar. Pour the marshmallow mixture onto the sheet and spread quickly until the depth is about an inch high. Smooth the top and allow it to set — this will take at least six hours or overnight. Once set, cut into one inch by inch pieces using a wet knife. Note: marshmallow recipe adapted from Food and Drink magazine.

to assemble

• Dip marshmallows into coffee liqueur, set aside. Meanwhile, melt dark chocolate in a medium metal bowl set over saucepan of simmering water. Stir until mixture is smooth. Remove from heat.
• Repeat process with white chocolate.
• Dip graham crackers in melted dark chocolate until coated on all sides and set on a piece of parchment paper.
• Dip marshmallows in dark chocolate until coated on all sides.
• Set each piece of marshmallow on top of each graham cracker square.
• Drizzle squares with melted white chocolate and dust with a sprinkling of crushed graham cracker crumbs for garnish. Set in fridge to cool.